Scapa Flow must be one of the main must do sites for most Sport Divers in Britain and also for divers from around the world. We started planning the trip back in 2001. The initial interest gave us enough names to look at chartering two boats. This task fell to Scapa Flow Diving Centre, run by Dave and Eileen Wombwell, who made us welcome and helped make the trip a great success. Our group was made up from divers from four clubs; Peeblesshire, Pentland, Musselburgh and Dumfries & Galloway. Although most of the group knew each other, the first time we were altogether was when we meet at St Margaret's after the ferry crossing from Gills Bay.

The members in the group were, Hugh Fraser (Peeblesshire) Sandy McPherson (Musselburgh), Ann-Marie Jamieson (Musselburgh), Paul Spence (Pentland), John and Lorraine Alexander (Peeblesshire), David Cairns (Peeblesshire), Jo Donbavand (Peeblesshire), Gordon Walker (Peeblesshire),Ted Sewell (Dumfries & Galloway), Charles Thorpe (Peeblesshire), Marion Brown (Pentland), Keith Morris (Pentland), Karen McPherson (Pentland), Alan Lissimore (Pentland), Kevin Watson (Pentland), Louise Thomson (Pentland), Mike Kerr (Pentland), Mo (Pentland), Kevin Jones (Musselburgh), Tony Bennett (Peeblesshire) and Brian Smith (Pentland).

Sunday was the first day of diving and gave the opportunity for the divers on each boat to get to know each other better. Scapa Flow Diving Centre had provided 2 boats, the Crusader and the Shalder. The Crusader is the larger of the two and managed the rough seas better than the smaller Shalder. The Shalder, however, offered more shelter for the divers in that the cabin area was more accessible for divers in their dry suits. Our first dives were to be the Cruiser, Karlsruhe, and then the WW2 escort vessel F2 and the YC21, also known as the Barge - two relatively shallow dives to get us started for the weeks diving. The Karlsruhe is well broken up and has been heavily salvaged. The visibility on both dives was excellent and fish were everywhere. The F2 sits in around 18m of water and there is a rope that you can follow which leads you to the ill-fated YC21, which sank during a storm while salvaging the F2. Salvaged guns from the F2 still lie in its hold. We had our first lunch ashore at Lyness Visitor Centre and Museum. Some of the party spent time viewing the displays, whilst others headed for the soup and cakes in the cafe there. We spent several lunch breaks there and on one occasion, watched a film about the history of Scapa inside one of the old storage tanks which had been converted into a cinema. Our first days diving ended with most of us having a meal in the Sands Hotel, followed by a few drinks. The bar in the Sands became the unofficial expedition headquarters. Most of us met there in the evenings after our meal, or after doing a bit of sightseeing around the islands.

Monday saw us heading across the expanse of water again for our first dive, the Dresden. After lunch at Lyness again, it was back on board and time to decide on our second dive. The wind was picking up and the sea was beginning to get rough, so that limited our diving options in the afternoon. We decided to head for the Rose Valley, which was only 5 minutes away from Lyness. This lies in a part of the flow where many of the salvaged ships were broken up. Everyone prepared for a drift dive and a good rummage around on the seabed to see what could be found. The depth on this dive was around 18 -20m, so everyone managed a good look around. Some drifted off the wrecks and their SMB's could be seen heading off in different directions. We then set of back to Burray in a bit more exciting sea -state than the start of the day. Most of the group on the Shalder headed below deck to take shelter, a few opted to shelter at the side of the wheel house and do aerobic exercises trying to keep level as the boat moved. The divers on the Crusader managed to get some shelter from the winds inside the galley, or downstairs in the cabins.

The weather started to take a turn for the worse, so Tuesday's plan was for the to head across the Flow as the Shalder headed for more sheltered water nearer to home. The group on the Crusader sailed off to dive the Köln first, then the V83. The Köln lies between 20 and 35m and provided an interesting dive. The V83 is well broken up but still provided a good dive, especially as the weather was beginning to look as if it was going to limit the diving for the rest of the week. The first dive for the Shalder was the UB116, which was mined near the end of the war. Fortunately for the divers on the Shalder, they had two excellent dives, with visibility of 20m and at a depth of 29m, this gave everyone enough bottom time for a good rummage around. Their second dive was on the experimental steam ship S54. This was an interesting dive as the boat has unusual features since it was a prototype. Yet again, they were treated to great visibility and lots of life around the wreck. The only disappointment was that the cameras had been left on the boat since the sea-state was a bit rough and it might have proved difficult to get back on board single handed!

Wednesday arrived and the weather was not treating us kindly. After a discussion at the harbour, we decided that the Crusader would be the only boat to sail that day. Several people opted to have a break from diving and do some sightseeing, whilst others decided on a shore dive and headed off towards Churchill Barrier No 2 where several pieces of the block ships can still be seen above the water. This proved to be an excellent decision, as they enjoyed 15m visibility and spent 50 minutes exploring the wreckage strewn in that area. Divers encountered large fish and swam over what was sandy bottom in places and a layer of pot pourri-like brown, pink and cream growth elsewhere. The Crusader set off across the Flow to dive the Brummer, then after having lunch on board, headed to the UB116 for their second dive. By now, the sea was getting rough and this was limiting our choice of dives. The site of the UB116 was more sheltered from the prevailing westerlies. Encouraged by the reports from the divers on the Shalder, who dived there the day before, we looked forward to the dive. For many on board, this was to be our first dive on the submarine and we were not disappointed. From part way down the shotline, the wreck came into view. The visibility must have been in the region of 20m and once on the bottom, each group headed off to view different parts of the wreck. The wreck is well broken up but it was possible to cover most of the site in one dive. The weather had done us a good turn. By a strange twist, we had gone to a more sheltered site and ended up having an excellent dive. The UB116 was considered by most as the best dive of the trip, with good visibility, plenty of life and wreckage to see and explore. On the way back to Burray again, in rough sea conditions, we all began to think that the weather was going to beat us and spoil the remaining two days diving.

Thursday arrived, but the threatened storms didn't materialise. Dave, our Skipper on the Crusader, explained that sometimes he thought the weather forecasters couldn't tell certain parts of their bodies from others!

Some of the group who dived on the Wednesday decided to take a day off on the Thursday. Again, the Crusader was the only boat to sail. This time, we headed for the Kronprinz Wilhelm, the only one of the German Battleships we managed to dive on, on the trip. We had to abandon our first attempt to reach the shotline because of surfacing divers. As we went around for another approach, someone in the group started to tap their fins on the deck and soon everyone had joined in, then a chorus of "Always look on the bright side of life" broke out! Twelve fully kitted up divers, singing in the driving rain - just about sums up the whole trip!

The Kroprinz turned out to be our darkest dive, with the poorest visibility. Whether this was because of the weather, or the number of other divers who had been on the wreck, it's hard to tell. The battleship had turned turtle as it sank, so it lies upside down. In poor visibility it's hard to appreciate the size of the wreck. After lunch on board, we sailed off towards the UB116, for most of us, our second dive on this wreck. This time, everyone was armed with cameras ready to get those pictures they missed earlier in the week. A group of us gathered at the bottom of the shot line for Sandy to get a picture, then we all went our own ways. Then, as if my magic, everyone appeared back at the shot-line together for our ascent. The shot-line at one time looked like a circus trapeze act. Some opted to follow the line, others used their SMB's. It turned into quite a sight while everyone did his or her safety stops at different levels.

Friday arrived all too quickly and saw both boats heading out again. The weather had threatened, but not managed to prevent diving throughout the week. Our first dive was on the Köln, where we were treated to great visibility and shoals of fish all around us. Our lunch break was taken at Houton, where many of the group found a hotel with great facilities to take some refreshments. Others took the chance to rest on board the boats before our final dive of the trip on the Brummer. This was a dive with great visibility and the fish were all around us again as we explored the wreckage. Then it was back to Burray, time to unload our kit for the last time and get it packed away ready for the journey home.

Friday night came and we all met up in Kirkwall for a curry where, after a few refreshments, we reminisced about our adventures and what we had seen. The weather had threatened every day to spoil the trip -it never quite managed this, although it did limit our choice of dives at times. Saturday saw everyone catching up on last minute shopping and sightseeing, with the shops doing a roaring trade in fleeces, shirts and hats, with the usual Scapa logos. Finally, we sailed out of St Margaret's back towards the mainland on a sea that was like a mirror! The same sea that, during the week, had produced 2m+ swells. Still, variety is what makes Scapa Flow one of the best dive sites in the world.